Fresno County High Point Trip Report
Date: August 16-20, 2000
Author: Andy Martin
August 16 -- We drove to Bishop from Tucson, to 4 Jeffrey Campground ($12) a few miles north of South
Lake. The high peaks were a bit cloudy in the afternoon, but this was the only bad weather spotted on the
entire trip -- other days being clear and sunny. Edward asked ranger station to leave his permit (for group)
in the Bishop pick-up box, and this worked well.
August 17 -- Set the alarm for 5:00 AM. The long term parking area by South Lake only had 2 open
slots, and they both filled pretty quick. Edward ended up parking some distance downhill later in the
We met up at Bishop pass for lunch, then headed on to Thunderbolt Pass. We went by way of 11,880'
+(40) lake outlet, gradually downhill on nice benches, then to big 11,640+ (40) bench above largest lake
in Dusy Basin. Now it was all uphill, with a lot of rock hopping up to saddle.
Here we had a vote on camping at the saddle (1.5 votes) or continuing down to well watered bench at
about 12,000' just south of the pass (2.5 votes). The higher camp required less hiking, but was windier,
cramped, and might require melting snow. In any case, the lower camp worked out well for everyone.
The altitude pretty much killed my appetite, so I forced down a freeze dried dinner and turned in early.
August 18 -- Set the alarm for 5:00 AM, and got to roust everyone out of their sleeping bags. We headed
off for the LeConte route. Catching the right chute was a bit tricky, but we used a copied photo of page 67
of Porcella and Burns "California's Fourteeners" to lock in on the right route. This book has good route
descriptions and photos, and I'd recommend it for North Pal climbers.
A herd path was also found, and the ground was a mix of loose dirt and rock. At 13,100' we found the
key ledge without much difficulty. It was completely dry, fairly wide, and usually had good handholds,
though it was downsloping in sections. In any case we all got across without needing a belay or hand line.
I did resort to seat of the pants sliding right at the start. The ledge went around a corner after about 70',
got very wide, and difficulties were over. Continue perhaps 200' to the last cairn. From here a clear view
of your route is presented, up the mountain to your right.
We gained the next 400' vertical fairly easily, and got close to the point where a narrow chute is entered.
Here a 30' steep patch is encountered, where we used a hand line to assist climbing up and (later) down.
Once in the chute the first chockstone was reached, with a 30' long patch of snow below it. Once again
the rope was used to aid ascent and descent here. The snow could be bypassed to the right, (all right/left
directions are given looking uphill) so crampons were not needed. A boost can be used to get over the big
step here, so parties without a strong lead climber could probably get by this spot.
However, they would be stopped at the next barrier, the crux of the route, another chockstone perhaps 12'
above another snow patch. An ice axe was handy for chopping footholds here (though not essential).
Edward was able to climb past the chockstone, placing one piece of protection, and Guy and Adam were
able to swarm up the rope he placed here. Andy had to resort to a one legged prussic to make up for a
missing foothold. It was a struggle to get packs up this spot. We all rappelled down this drop on the
descent - Andy's first ever rappel.
Not much further uphill you reach the top of the chute, and drop into another one to the right. There was
a small rock shelter here, and we left almost all our climbing gear, and the rope. Elevation is perhaps
13,800'. Heading up to the summit bowl another chockstone is passed to the left (Andy), straight over
(Adam and Edward), or to the right (Guy), which is the easiest way.
Things got confusing in the last few 100 feet of climb. Porcella and Burns page 68 states:
"Continue up the basin to gain the summit ridge, From here the northeast face can be seen dropping away.
Turn west and continue climbing between the huge summit boulders until the summit platform is
I took this to mean the summit ridge SE of the peak could be traversed. Maybe there was a nice patch of
tundra over the ridge? (NOT !)
Unfortunately, I went up to the ridge too soon, and was blocked by a large gendarme. After dropping
down and passing the mini-tower it was back up to the knife-edge ridge, which was still way too tough for
me to traverse. Edward and Adam went up to the ridge just west of the summit, but were also stymied.
So close, and yet so far !
In any case, we eventually blundered on the real zigzagging route up, by aiming for a point perhaps only
50 feet to the right of the summit block.
A. Follow faint herd paths to a broken white streak that zigs left. Go along the white streak perhaps 20
yards till it peters out.
B. Now zag back to right in a split ledge. Pop out of the split near a cairn (there are not many cairns to
outline the route).
C. Continue to top of split ledge, then zig up to left a short distance.
D. Zag up to right a short distance.
E. An unusual spot is reached - you have to zig downhill to the left about 10 feet, and end up on top of an
overhanging rock. From here you can crawl up about 5 feet through a 1 foot wide crack to avoid a more
exposed route up. You are now in a roomy opening between huge rocks. Head across room towards the top.
F. It is about 5 feet up to a nice 1-foot square platform. You can either drop down a crack on far side and
wriggle your way forward, (if small enough), or take a big step up a banister like rock. In either case you
will finally see the summit rock, which is only 20 feet of easy going further on.
G. Collapse breathless on the summit.
Views are great, Sierra Club register and a couple BM are found, and we enjoyed a breezy and all too
short summit stay.
Descent was slow and uneventful, and we arrived back at high camp after 6PM. I forced down Ramen
soup (much better than the old freeze dried meal from previous night) and headed for the sack. Another
night of trying to find the least sore hip to roll over on.
August 19 -- No early alarm this morning. Lots of ice on the tent, and no sun due to shade of North Pal.
Hiked out to trailhead a bit after 3 PM, left Guy at a bush camp for further adventures and I bush camped
myself near Ludlow CA. The hot desert winds were quite a change from previous night.