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County High Pointing in all 50 states
Yahoo! Groups
County High Pointing in all 50 states Group
4 Messages
Digest #5510
1a
Ed Viesturs on Borah Peak by highptlw
1b
Re: Ed Viesturs on Borah Peak by "Scott Surgent" surgent1
1c
Re: Ed Viesturs on Borah Peak by nj55er
2
About National Monuments by davidwmolson2

Messages
1a
Ed Viesturs on Borah Peak
Thu May 4, 2017 7:57 pm (PDT) . Posted by:
highptlw
Not for me! I hit the wall at 43! Borah and beyond is not in the cards for me! I'm chickening out1


Mount Borah is Idahos highest peak and a rite of passage for Idahoans and High Pointers alike.

Idahos highest peak (12,668 feet) resides in the Lost River Range in East Central Idaho. Many of the lofty summits of this fault-block range rise over 5,000 vertical feet from the valley floor making these the biggest mountain faces in Idaho. Sawtooth Mountain Guides knows the mountain intimately and has helped thousands of climbers reach their goal of standing on Borahs summit.


Although a decent trail does snake its way to the top of the Mt. Borah reaching the summit is not a hike. The elevation difference from trailhead to peak is 5200 vertical feet, which is gained over about 4 miles. The trail is relentlessly steep especially on the descent, which is why hiking poles are strongly encouraged.
The Chicken-Out Ridge section of the climb begins around 11,200 for about 500 vertical feet where the route follows an exposed, 3rd class ridge. (3rd class means that scrambling and some climbing is necessary in steep, exposed terrain). Although many climbers move through Chicken Out without a rope our guides will use one to provide additional security. There are several locations where falling is not an option!
Following Chicken Out ridge the trail makes a long traverse for the final push up the upper west face. This section consists of loose limestone scree and talus and those not familiar with moving in this type of mountainous terrain can find this section exhausting.
Of course once on the summit climbers are rewarded with views of no less than six major Idaho mountain ranges and a much-needed break before beginning the descent, which often takes as long or longer than the climb!
Read about Ed Viesturs joining Erik Leidecker for a climb of Mount Borah http://blog.eddiebauer.com/2015/10/23/ed-viesturs-joins-erik-leidecker-on-idahos-borah-peak/


Difficulty: Good fitness required  do not underestimate a Borah ascent! Here are some tips for preparing for Borah:
Arrive with a high level of aerobic fitness! Gain as much experience possible traveling off-trail in rugged, mountainous terrain. If coming from at or near sea level plan an extra day or two to acclimatize prior to the climb. Sleep at six thousand feet and try to get some light exercise. Carry a small packsee our equipment list http://sawtoothguides.com/forms/borah-equipment-list.pdfwith just the necessary gear. Ice and ax and crampons are usually only necessary for June ascents. Duration: 8 to 18 hours. A fit party with experience moving in similar terrain will be on the shorter end of the duration spectrum.
Meeting Time: 5am
Meeting Location: Mount Borah Trailhead http://sawtoothguides.com/directions/#mount-borah
What We Provide:
All technical climbing equipment (harness, helmet, rope) What You Need:
Review the equipment lis http://sawtoothguides.com/forms/borah-equipment-list.pdft Posted on October 23, 2015







http://blog.eddiebauer.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Leidecker_Matt-1511.jpg
As co-owner and co-operator of Sawtooth Mountain Guides http://sawtoothguides.com/, Erik Leidecker has guided the milk run up 12,662-foot Borah Peak countless times. But guiding the infamous ridge up the famous peak in the Lost River Mountains with his Eddie Bauer teammate Ed Viesturs forced him to examine the approach and potential consequences a little bit differently. Getting to the summit is optional; getting down is mandatory, even on the local backyard high point. LYA Editor
http://blog.eddiebauer.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Leidecker_Matt-2.jpg
Words by Erik Leidecker, Images by Matt Leidecker
Earlier this fall I had the opportunity to climb Mt. Borah, the highest peak in Idaho, with fellow Eddie Bauer guide team member and legendary climber, Ed Viesturs. Ed and I both live near Sun Valley, Idaho, and we donated our time to guide a group up Mt. Borah to benefit the Sun Valley Ski Education Foundation (SVSEF).
Standing 12,668 feet tall in the Lost River Mountains, Mt. Borah is climbed by hundreds of people each year, mainly during the summer months. The standard Southwest Ridge route gains 5,200 vertical feet over three and a half miles. The famous Chicken Out Ridge section of the climb begins at 11,400 feet and intermittently follows a jagged limestone arte for about four hundred vertical feet. The climbing on Chicken Out Ridge is 3rd and 4th class, the rock is often loose, and there are many locations where a slip or fall could be disastrous. After Chicken Out Ridge, a loose, rocky trail skirts the west face all the way to the summit.
Prior to this day in the mountains, Ed and I had never really spent much time together. And due to our roles during this Borah climb, we didnt have many chances to converse. Nevertheless, just having Ed along on the climb got me thinking a lot about decision-making challenges we face while guiding and climbing non-technical peaks such as Borah.
http://blog.eddiebauer.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Leidecker_Matt-1241.jpg
http://blog.eddiebauer.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Leidecker_Matt-1118.jpg http://blog.eddiebauer.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Leidecker_Matt-1201.jpg http://blog.eddiebauer.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Leidecker_Matt-1281.jpg


Mt. Borah is a summer milk run for my guide service, Sawtooth Mountain Guides (SMG). Guides use short-roping and pitching techniques to protect climbers through Chicken Out Ridge, but there are no other technical guiding challenges unless the mountain is covered in firm snow.
Nevertheless, days on Borah can be long and grueling. Many guided and non-guided climbers underestimate the difficulty of climbing Borah because the presumption is that the ascent is non-technical. Although this is somewhat accurate, it overshadows the fitness required to efficiently manage the vertical relief alone, which is a mile in both directions. The average fit climber acclimatized to the elevation and with experience in 3rd and 4th class terrain can be up and down Borah in around seven hours. However, less-fit climbers or those without experience traveling in the rugged terrain often take between 12 and 18 hours. Usually the descent eats up somewhere between half and two-thirds of the overall round-trip time.
Indeed, going down Borah is torturous. The trail on the west face headwall is steep and loose. Each and every step requires care, and those unfamiliar with this type of terrain can move painfully slow. Reversing Chicken Out Ridge usually takes a little longer than on the ascent, but then the real suffering begins.
http://blog.eddiebauer.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Leidecker_Matt-1342.jpg
http://blog.eddiebauer.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Leidecker_Matt-1399.jpg http://blog.eddiebauer.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Leidecker_Matt-1584.jpg http://blog.eddiebauer.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Leidecker_Matt-1831.jpg


The return trip from the terraces at 11,400 feet, where Chicken Out Ridge ends, to the trailhead at 7,400 feet is a 4,000-foot knee-pounder, with barely a flat section for any respite. The terrain is consistently steep, with slope angles between 25 and 40 degrees, and the trail only contours from the vertical fall line by a few degrees. Hiking poles can be helpful, but the bottom line is that the descent is brutal, especially on the knees.
Because of the long descent, guides at SMG have been discussing ideas more often associated with Mt. Everest than Mt. Borah. Should we implement mandatory turn-around times? Should we better screen potential climbers regarding previous injuries and fitness?
Even with a good weather forecast and motivated climbers, spending eighteen hours on Borah is not unreasonable. But throw in an unanticipated thunderstorm or a twisted ankle and the situation moves from routine to serious in a matter of moments, and undermines the ability to return safely to the trailhead.
http://blog.eddiebauer.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Leidecker_Matt-4.jpg
http://blog.eddiebauer.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Leidecker_Matt-1629.jpg http://blog.eddiebauer.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Leidecker_Matt-1837.jpg http://blog.eddiebauer.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Leidecker_Matt-1903.jpg


I think the vast majority of climbers are not willing to die for the summit. If this is the case, then the decision to turn back, even on a walk-up such as Mt. Borah, needs to be taken more seriously. If its late in the day, if the sky is getting dark, if the descent will take longer than the ascent, or if that little voice just says something isnt right, then it might well be time to turn around and start down.
Perhaps Ed Viesturss greatest legacy as a writer, motivational speaker, and alpinist is his mantra, Getting to the summit is optional. Getting down is mandatory. The day I climbed Borah with Ed, our group was fit and the weather was good. Our team summited and returned to the trailhead in about ten hours, and we never really had to contemplate turning around. But had things played out differently, Id like to think that Eds wisdom would have been first and foremost in my mind.
http://blog.eddiebauer.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Leidecker_Matt-1996.jpg







Author: Erik Leidecker http://blog.eddiebauer.com/author/eleidecker/ - Friday, October 23rd, 2015
TAGGED: Borah Peak http://blog.eddiebauer.com/tag/borah-peak/ Chickenout Ridge http://blog.eddiebauer.com/tag/chickenout-ridge/ Ed Viesturs http://blog.eddiebauer.com/tag/ed-viesturs/ Erik Leidecker http://blog.eddiebauer.com/tag/erik-leidecker/ Idaho Alpine Climbing http://blog.eddiebauer.com/tag/idaho-alpine-climbing/ Live Your Adventure http://blog.eddiebauer.com/tag/live-your-adventure/ Rocktober http://blog.eddiebauer.com/tag/rocktober/ Sawtooth Mountain Guides http://blog.eddiebauer.com/tag/sawtooth-mountain-guides/






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1b
Re: Ed Viesturs on Borah Peak
Thu May 4, 2017 8:15 pm (PDT) . Posted by:
"Scott Surgent" surgent1
Neat to see Viesturs slumming it on little old Borah :)

Borah is a perfect climb to graduate from trailhikes to hikes involving
more actual climbing technique. It took me two tries and I am happy I went
back a second time.

Don't dismiss a climb of Borah as beyond your skillset. As I recall (It's
been 14 years for me), there were just a few very short spots on the
Chicken Out Ridge that were dicey. All else was steep and exposed but very
safe. The other 5,100 vertical feet was just tiring.

Scott

On 4 May 2017 at 18:59, highpt43@optimum.net [cohp] <cohp@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:

>
>
> Not for me! I hit the wall at 43! Borah and beyond is not in the cards for
> me! I'm chickening out1
>
>
> Mount Borah is Idahos highest peak and a rite of passage for Idahoans and
> High Pointers alike.
>
> Idahos highest peak (12,668 feet) resides in the Lost River Range in East
> Central Idaho. Many of the lofty summits of this fault-block range rise
> over 5,000 vertical feet from the valley floor making these the biggest
> mountain faces in Idaho. Sawtooth Mountain Guides knows the mountain
> intimately and has helped thousands of climbers reach their goal of
> standing on Borahs summit.
> ...
>
>
>
>
>

-- 
Scott Surgent
Principal Lecturer & Associate Director, First Year Mathematics
Arizona State University, Tempe
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1c
Re: Ed Viesturs on Borah Peak
Thu May 4, 2017 8:34 pm (PDT) . Posted by:
nj55er
My memory is a bit vague from 1981, but I believe I might have bypassed chicken-out ridge to the left on scree as you ascend. Someone I met at the trailhead or on the mountain suggested it, and it worked out fine, I think. Then again, the photos of C.O.R. look very familiar, so who knows? No video and no field notes. There was also no established trail on the first section, just a mess of braided use paths through the scrub. Real knee strainers on the descent. It helped being in rock hard shape and skinny back then.

Mike Schwartz

-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Surgent surgent@asu.edu [cohp] <cohp@yahoogroups.com>
To: Egroup <cohp@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thu, May 4, 2017 11:15 pm
Subject: Re: [cohp] Ed Viesturs on Borah Peak

Neat to see Viesturs slumming it on little old Borah :)

Borah is a perfect climb to graduate from trailhikes to hikes involving more actual climbing technique. It took me two tries and I am happy I went back a second time.

Don't dismiss a climb of Borah as beyond your skillset. As I recall (It's been 14 years for me), there were just a few very short spots on the Chicken Out Ridge that were dicey. All else was steep and exposed but very safe. The other 5,100 vertical feet was just tiring.

Scott

On 4 May 2017 at 18:59, highpt43@optimum.net [cohp] <cohp@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Not for me! I hit the wall at 43! Borah and beyond is not in the cards for me! I'm chickening out1

Mount Borah is Idahos highest peak and a rite of passage for Idahoans and High Pointers alike.

Idahos highest peak (12,668 feet) resides in the Lost River Range in East Central Idaho. Many of the lofty summits of this fault-block range rise over 5,000 vertical feet from the valley floor making these the biggest mountain faces in Idaho. Sawtooth Mountain Guides knows the mountain intimately and has helped thousands of climbers reach their goal of standing on Borahs summit.
...

-- 

Scott Surgent
Principal Lecturer & Associate Director, First Year Mathematics

Arizona State University, Tempe


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2
About National Monuments
Fri May 5, 2017 6:40 pm (PDT) . Posted by:
davidwmolson2
Perhaps designating National Monuments has gotten to the 'abuse' stage...
Antiquities Act Executive Order: An Opportunity to End a Monumental Abuse of Government Power
https://townhall.com/columnists/congressmanpaulgosar/2017/05/05/trumps-antiquities-act-executive-order-an-opportunity-to-end-a-monumental-abuse-of-government-power-n2322586

David Olson

davidwmolson@aim.com

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